How has it changed over the past 10 years?

Pitti Uomo 109, the world’s premier men’s fashion trade show, has come to a close. Compared to 10 years ago, when the “Pitti Peacock” fashionistas dominated the show, the current landscape has undergone a dramatic transformation. In this article, we look back at the Pitti Uomo of 10 years ago and today, and examine the trends we saw at the latest Pitti Uomo to see what the “future of fashion” should look like in the future.

AthleisurePitti Uomo 89

First, we look back at Pitti Immagine Uomo 89, which was held 10 years ago in January 2016. The main theme set for the 89th edition was “Pitti Generation(s).” Young people wore classic clothes, while older people boldly adopted street and mode styles. The focus was on styles that intersected these generations. J” and “Adidas Originals by White Mountaineering,” brands with a strong street and tech image, were invited as guests to showcase their runway creations. At a time when the image of “Pitti Uomo = Classico Italia” was even stronger than before, it was a shock to the industry to have these brands show at the Pitti Uomo.

The style of the visitors had changed from suits and jackets to a mixed dress style with high-tech sneakers and sporty materials, and military items such as M-65s and MA-1s were updated elegantly with high quality materials. This event was followed by invitations to the Pitti Uomo by street designers such as Raf Simons, Gosha Rubchinskiy (90th), and OFF-WHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH (92nd), and street fashion became the focus of much attention as a trend. Street fashion became a trend.

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Diverse Styles Organized Contemporary FashionThe latest Pitti Uomo 109 enters its maturity phase!

The theme for Pitti Uomo 109 in January 2026 is ” MOTION”. This message is that the essence of fashion is about constant change. The past is reinterpreted to reflect the “present” while at the same time foreshadowing the “tomorrow.” This constant energy and surprise is the driving force behind fashion, and this edition focused on a more philosophical and essential style of fashion, different from the passionate theme of 10 years ago.

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Lisa Guglielmi/LiveMedia/Shutterstock (16332307f)
General view of Pitti Immagine Uomo 109
Pitti Immagine Uomo 109, Fortezza da Basso, Florence, Italy – 15 Jan 2026

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We took photos of visitors and observed trends, but we did not see any easy-to-understand trends such as “logo dons” and “dado sneakers” of the past, which we thought would be “the next trend! However, there were no obvious trends such as “logo dongs” or “dud sneakers” in the past. However, there were certainly some changes from previous years, such as slightly different sizes and silhouettes, and fresh combinations of items. As the theme “MOTION” suggests, we may be at a stage of maturity where the essential element of fashion, “movement,” is being addressed. For your information, detailed reports on the trends will be introduced in a separate article with #Pitti Uomo, so if you are interested, please be sure to check it out.

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Trends are hard to spot in 2026

After the pandemic, “logodon,” “street,” “vintage,” “gopecore,” “normcore,” “street chic” Trend keywords such as “Y2K” and “Quiet Luxury” have come and gone, and now we are entering the year 2026. What will be the next fashion style that attracts attention? At the most recent Pitti Uomo, I got the impression that while maintaining the simple line that leads to “Quiet Luxury,” each brand is searching for a new style by layering, incorporating patterns, and devising color schemes. From here on, I would like to introduce a snapshot of such a coordination, which I call “nuanced simplicity,” although it may be an abstract expression.

2026 Latest Nuanced Simple Coordinates 1Treat the shirt as a middle outerwear

In the past few years, effortless styling that looks like a coat thrown over a knit has been attracting attention. At this year’s Pitti Uomo, layered styles with one more item added between the knit and the coat stood out. One of the freshest styles was the use of lightweight shirts such as broadcloth and oxford as middle outerwear. For example, in this snapshot, a navy coat is worn with a shirt and only a T-shirt as an inner layer, but in fact, a high-gauge knit is also layered. This is a challenging look that overturns the conventional image of “shirts are originally underwear.

2026 Latest Nuanced Simple Coordinate 2Add a tech element to your usual layering

There are other examples of layered clothing that aim for the unexpected. This man not only uses a denim jacket, the go-to jacket for stylish people, as an inner layer, but also incorporates a mountain parka with a tech-like material into his layered outfit. This is a good example of the neo-layered style that can be achieved only with an oversized coat that is less likely to show signs of bulging. While the style is simple, consisting only of plain items, the layering of clothing gives it a unique character that is truly nuanced and simple.

2026 Latest Nuanced Simple Coordinate 3Aiming for a stylish look by linking colors

This styling is based on a black coordinate with a chic blue shirt. The tag sewn into the cigar pocket of the MA-1 is blue, which is a subtle color link with the blue shirt. The fashionable people who enjoy such an unnoticeable arrangement could be seen at this year’s Pitti Uomo.

2026 Latest Nuanced Simple Codes 4Short & Short Layered

Short length outerwear continues to be popular. Short-length and short-length layered outerwear styles are a fresh take on the short-length outerwear look, and the attempt to boldly enjoy layering with MA-1s, denim jackets, cowtin knits, G-jans, quilted vests, and other short-length outerwear is also an experiment in itself. It’s also an exciting experiment to boldly enjoy layering in short lengths.

2026 Latest Nuanced Simple Codes 5Knitted pattern knit and patterned shirt for a playful touch

Even when wearing patterns & patterns, the knitted pattern of the knit moderately restrains the assertion and makes it easier to enjoy a nuanced coordinate. This coordination shows us such new possibilities for dressing up. The creative layering of the cable-knit sweater with the striped shirt as an inner layer to boldly show the hem is interesting.

What to buy now?Items that can be used as a middle layer are the ones to aim for!

As we enter the second half of the winter season, mid-January is a good time to start looking toward the spring and summer months. If you are planning to buy more items, the best items to look for are those that can be used as a middle layer that will not only be effective immediately, but also can be expected to be used in the spring season. If you refer to the snaps above, you should check out oxford and broadcloth shirts, short denim jackets, and mountain parkas. Here are some recommendations for what you can buy now.

Recommended items for the middle layer 1GENTLEMAN PROJECTS' BARON

The pattern is arranged based on the Italian collar and can be worn in two ways, “semi-wide collar” or “open collar,” depending on your mood. This box casual shirt features a new type of collar that can be enjoyed in two ways, “semi-wide collar” and “open collar,” depending on your mood. The appeal of this shirt is its balance that allows it to be worn like outerwear, and its roomy design that allows you to wear a high-gauge knit as an inner layer. The fabric is oxford woven slowly and carefully in high density at a factory in the Banshu area of Hyogo Prefecture, paying special attention to the number of rotations of the weaving machine.

GENTLEMAN PROJECTS

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Recommended item for middle layer 2BEAMS PLUS Digger Jacket 62 Twill

From BEAMS PLUS, a brand that is gaining more support from overseas than in Japan, comes this vintage cowboy jacket from the 1940s. Digger Jacket” based on a vintage cowboy jacket from the 1940s. The design is attractive for its reproduction of the cinch back and the use of rivets throughout, which are specifications of the time. The length is moderately short, making it easy to enjoy layering with all kinds of outerwear.

BEAMS

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Recommended items for middle layers 3Arc'teryx's Atom SL Hoody

Arc’teryx’s synthetic fiber insulation series “Atom” is one of the brand’s iconic items. It is a standard item of clothing that “all Arc’teryx employees are said to have at least one of these items. The Atom SL Hoody is packable and the lightest and most compact, making it perfect for wearing as an outer layer or under a shell or coat.

arcteryx.jp

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